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Discussion: Fixed Gear in Cheesewring QuarryReported This is a featured thread

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BarneyCarver
BarneyCarver
Fixed Gear in Cheesewring Quarry
Sep 29 2009, 10:03 AM EDT | Post edited: Sep 29 2009, 10:14 AM EDT
The fixed gear on the Quarry’s sport-routes is gradually being replaced (see http://southwestclimbing.wetpaint.com/page/Cheesewring+Quarry for more info) but what should be done with the pegs on the traditional routes?

My personal opinion is only the most crucial pegs should be replaced, with those that are not necessary being either left to rot away or removed altogether. Perhaps removing the unnecessary pegs would allow the limited resources of the local climbers (time, money and effort) to be focused on maintaining the most needed fixed gear in future.

I’d like to know what everyone thinks about the fixed gear in the Quarry on a route by route, case by case, basis as this would help to establish an approach to take when the pegs in question become dangerous.

In the post below is a list of some Cheesewring routes with info on the state of the pegs (which were mentioned in Sean’s ’98 guide) and my personal thoughts on what should happen to them in future… Do you find this valuable?    
BarneyCarver
BarneyCarver
1. RE: Fixed Gear in Cheesewring Quarry
Sep 29 2009, 10:08 AM EDT | Post edited: Sep 29 2009, 10:17 AM EDT
Central Corner – bent old peg in poor state, hard to clip, alternative protection available, should it be removed or replaced?
Snatch – stainless steel peg in good condition, can be backed-up with wires and cams. (No action needed at present.)
Fingerbob – lower peg is poor and top peg has broken off, good cam placements in between. (I suspect pegs in this corner have a short life-span.)
Watchman – pegs tested recently! Top one can be backed-up. (These pegs can’t be relied upon.)
Trouble with Lichen – The peg was stolen in 1997 leaving a good wire placement this route is now an excellent entirely naturally protected free-climb and should always remain so.
Nocturne – the peg mentioned has gone (possibly stolen) but the route is very well protected without it (This route to stay peg-free.)
Second Class Return/One Way Ticket – the peg mentioned has gone but from memory there is a good #7 wire placement near where it was. (These are good routes and they deserve to remain peg-free.)
The Purple Revrac – any pegs that were in this have now gone, it is well protected without them and should stay peg free.
Eyefull Tower – the peg above the belay (pitch 2) is very poor but can be backed-up with small wires the peg in the groove is by the recently replaced bolt and is not needed for protection but is a point of aid at HVS. (Perhaps the first peg should be replaced as it’s a bit of a way marker but there is no need to replace the second.)
Traitor’s Gate – the peg in the hollow flake has gone. (This route is a bold ’60s Cheesewring route regardless of whether or not the peg is there. It should be treated and graded as such. The peg shouldn’t be replaced, it is a bad placement in a hollow flake offering a false sense of security.)
Lemon Tree (& The Vandal) – two poor pegs side by side at the belay. (These pegs can and should be backed-up but I’m in favour of replacing the two with one good new one as they mark the belay point.)
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Deaner666
2. RE: Fixed Gear in Cheesewring Quarry
Oct 1 2009, 3:46 AM EDT | Post edited: Oct 1 2009, 3:46 AM EDT
I'd add my general agreement to what you mention here. In answer to your question about the peg in Central Corner, it most certainly should NOT be replaced. There's perfectly good natural placements around it. I've fallen onto the peg and it held fine - but I certainly wouldn't trust it alone. On the other hand, it feels like a part of the route to me and I'd almost be sad to see it go :-) Why not just leave it as is?

Same is true of Lemon Tree actually... I didn't know the peg was supposed to mark the belay. I've never seen anyone belay that route from there. Everyone either belays under the corner of Unnamed, or more often, from the huge platform just down and a bit to the left of Unnamed. Protection can be arranged around the peg point you're talking about, but not much. Would whacking out the old pegs and putting in a new one affect this? Do you find this valuable?    

Kyuhyun
3. RE: Fixed Gear in Cheesewring Quarry
Aug 29 2010, 11:00 PM EDT | Post edited: Aug 29 2010, 11:00 PM EDT
Thanks a lot for ur sharing.
I find it very helpful
:)


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